Our remarks

Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Openworked Ref. 43172/000P-9236, 950 Platinum, 2022, Full Set

Skeleton watches are among the most demanding pieces a manufacture can make, and a perpetual calendar adds another level of complexity on top. Vacheron Constantin has a long tradition in both. In 1984, shortly after the quartz crisis, the house presented its first skeletonized perpetual calendar as a statement that fine mechanical watchmaking was back. The reference 43172 continues that story in its most refined form, with a platinum case and a movement engraved entirely by hand.

The 39 mm case is made of 950 platinum and measures only 8.82 mm in height. That is remarkably slim for a perpetual calendar, and it gives the watch an elegant, refined presence on the wrist. The classic Traditionnelle case with its fine lines lets the open movement take center stage, and through the sapphire caseback you can admire it from both sides.

The dial is made of transparent sapphire, so you look straight through it into the heart of the watch. Only a silvered ring carries the hour markers and minute track, which keeps the watch easy to read. The perpetual calendar shows the day, date, month and the four-year leap year cycle, together with a moon phase. Thanks to the clear layout, all indications remain legible despite the openworked design. The calendar knows the different lengths of the months and will not need a correction until 2100.

Inside works the self-winding caliber 1120 QP SQ, which carries the Hallmark of Geneva. Its engraving is what makes this watch a true work of art. Vacheron Constantin’s master engravers drew inspiration from Art Nouveau and from the elegant metal structure of the Eiffel Tower. Every bridge and plate is cut away and decorated by hand, and the result is one of the most beautiful skeleton movements in modern watchmaking.

Its worn on a night-blue alligator strap with a platinum Vacheron Constantin pin buckle.

The watch dates from 2022 and is in excellent condition. It comes as a full set with box and papers, COSC certificate, all setting tools, hang tag, 2nd leather strap.

"A breattaking and rare platinum perpetual calendar you can look straight through, and a masterpiece of the engraver’s art!"