Our remarks

Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Moon Phase Ref. 5205R-010, 18k Rose Gold, Black Dial, Box & Papers 2022, Excellent

Patek Philippe invented the annual calendar in 1996, and in doing so created one of the most useful complications in watchmaking. It knows the difference between months with 30 and 31 days and needs only one correction a year, at the end of February. The reference 5205 is one of its most elegant expressions. Its design stands apart from the classic Patek look, with a sculpted case and a dial layout that feels modern yet unmistakably refined. In rose gold with a black dial, it shows the collection at its most striking.

The 40 mm case is made of 18 karat rose gold and measures 11.36 mm in height. Its case architecture is what makes the 5205 so distinctive: a slim, concave bezel and elegantly stepped lugs that give the watch a dynamic, sculptural profile. Through the sapphire caseback you can admire the movement.

The black lacquered dial makes a beautiful contrast to the warm rose gold. Three apertures along an arc between 10 and 2 o’clock show the day, the date and the month, an arrangement that gives the dial a wonderful sense of harmony. At 6 o’clock, the moon phase is combined with a 24-hour indicator. The applied rose gold markers and dauphine hands stand out clearly against the black and keep the watch easy to read.

Inside works the self-winding Patek Philippe caliber 324 S QA LU 24H/206, which carries the Patek Philippe Seal. Its finely finished bridges and gold rotor can be seen through the caseback. 

It is worn on a shiny black alligator strap with an 18 karat rose gold Patek Philippe pin buckle.

The watch dates from 2022. It comes as set with box and papers, an additional unworn black leather strap & setting pin.

"One of Patek Philippe’s smartest complications in its most elegant form, the annual calendar in its current form!"