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Cartier Santos-Dumont Large Model Ref. 96054, 18k Yellow Gold, White Roman “Paris” Dial, 1985, Cartier Service 2026

The Santos-Dumont is one of the first wristwatches ever made for a man. In 1904 the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont told his friend Louis Cartier that he could not check his pocket watch while flying, because he needed both hands on the controls. Louis Cartier designed a watch he could wear on his wrist instead. That watch became a legend, and the Santos-Dumont still carries the name of the man who inspired it.

The square case with its gently rounded corners is made of 18 karat yellow gold. It is slim and elegant, and its clean, flat profile makes it a perfect dress watch that slides easily under a shirt cuff. The crown is set with a cabochon, the signature detail of every Cartier watch.

The white dial carries Cartier’s classic Roman numerals, the railway track minute ring and the blued sword-shaped hands. It is signed “Cartier Paris”, a detail collectors value, because it ties the watch directly to the historic home of the maison on the Rue de la Paix. The dial is calm, balanced and timeless. Inside works the very fine manual caliber Frederique Piguet caliber 21.

The watch dates from 1985 and is in excellent condition. It was serviced by Cartier in 2026 and comes with the Cartier service report and its Cartier service pouch.

- under official Cartier service warranty until 09/2028

"A vintage Santos-Dumont in gold, and a piece of aviation history you can wear on your wrist."