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Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Ref. 5402SA, Stainless Steel and 18k Yellow Gold, Silver Tritium Tapisserie Dial, 1978

In 1972 Audemars Piguet presented a watch that nobody had asked for and that would change watchmaking forever. Gérald Genta designed it in a single night, and AP made it in steel, at a price higher than many gold watches of the time. That watch was the Royal Oak reference 5402. Collectors call it the “Jumbo”, and today it is one of the most important watches of the 20th century. This example combines steel with 18 karat yellow gold, a version that is much rarer than the all-steel model.

The 39 mm case is only around 7 mm thin, which gives the Jumbo its famous flat, elegant profile. The octagonal bezel in yellow gold with its eight hexagonal screws was inspired by the portholes of old diving helmets. Brushed and polished surfaces alternate across the case and the integrated bracelet, and the warm gold next to the cool steel makes the design look even more refined.

The silver dial carries the “Tapisserie” pattern, the fine waffle structure that has defined the Royal Oak from the very beginning. The applied markers and hands are filled with tritium, which has aged gently over the years and gives the dial a soft vintage warmth. The date window at 3 o’clock and the AP signature complete the clean, timeless layout.

Inside works the self-winding caliber 2121, one of the thinnest automatic movements with date ever made. It is the reason the Jumbo can be so remarkably slim, and it is still regarded as a masterpiece of watchmaking

„A very attractive two-tone Jumbo from the first years of the Royal Oak, and a piece of watch history you can wear every day!"